Sunday, September 21, 2025

Beyond Quiapo: Discovering Manila’s hidden Muslim Quarter

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While Quiapo’s reputation as a food mecca remains unshakeable, the real culinary revelation lies just blocks away from the famous church. Here, in Manila’s Muslim Quarter, the sensory assault begins before you even reach the food stalls—turmeric-stained fingers counting change, the sizzle of meat hitting hot grills, and the melodic calls of vendors hawking their wares in a symphony of languages.

This isn’t food tourism; it’s cultural immersion with a side of extraordinary eating.

Palapa: A Maranao Essential

Past the halal barbecue smoke and towering yellowfin tuna displays, unassuming plastic tubs hold Manila’s best-kept secret: palapa. Don’t let its humble appearance fool you—this russet-colored paste from the Maranao people of Mindanao delivers complexity that would make any chef weep with envy.

The alchemy begins with sakurab (native scallions), their sharp bite mellowed by fresh ginger and earthy turmeric. Chilies provide heat that builds slowly, while toasted coconut adds subtle sweetness and textural intrigue. Each spoonful delivers layered flavors that bloom across your palate—first the aromatics, then the heat, finally the lingering coconut richness that keeps you reaching for more.

Watch any Maranao family eat, and you’ll understand palapa’s true power. It doesn’t just accompany food; it transforms it. Rice becomes fragrant and complex. Grilled meat gains depth. Even simple vegetables turn extraordinary. For Manila’s Maranao diaspora, it’s edible nostalgia. For the uninitiated, it’s an epiphany.

Community Dining at Arab Asian Resto Café

Arab Asian Resto Café occupies that sweet spot between authenticity and accessibility. Located steps from the gleaming Masjid Al-Dahab, it pulses with genuine neighborhood energy—children weaving between tables, cats claiming sunny spots, and the kind of intergenerational chatter that makes dining feel like joining an extended family.

The menu reads like a love letter to accessible halal cuisine. My cheesy veggie paratha arrived golden and flaky, the bread’s layers separating with each bite to reveal melted cheese and perfectly spiced vegetables. The accompanying Milo Ais—Malaysian-style iced chocolate drink—provided the ideal cool counterpoint, rich and malty with just enough sweetness while making me experience iliw for Tawi-Tawi.

With street snack items ranging from ₱25 -₱170 and rice meals starting at ₱115, the pricing reflects the restaurant’s community-focused mission. Even the premium Mutton Biryani, fragrant with whole spices and tender meat, costs just ₱350. This isn’t fine dining—it’s something arguably more valuable: honest food made with care for people who understand its worth.

Tiula Itum: The Tausug Black Soup

Miles away at Palm Grill in Quezon City, Tiula Itum commands attention from the moment it arrives. The Tausug “black soup” earns its name from charred coconut meat, ground to powder and stirred into a broth so dark it seems to absorb light.

But this isn’t about theatrics—it’s about flavor layering that would impress any culinary school instructor. The beef marinates in spices and that distinctive burnt coconut powder, developing complex flavors before meeting garlic, onions, and the holy trinity of Southeast Asian cooking: turmeric, ginger, and galangal. Black pepper provides spine, while lemongrass and shallots add brightness to the rich, dark broth.

Palm Grill’s masterstroke comes with service: generous bone marrow portions get torched tableside, the flames adding smoky aromatics that lift the entire dish. Each spoonful delivers umami depth that lingers long after the bowl empties.

Knickerbocker: A Zamboanga Dessert

For those who still have room in their tummy (but please make room), for Knickerbocker—Zamboanga’s answer to halo-halo. While similar in concept, this dessert carries its own regional personality, layers of textures and flavors that satisfy without overwhelming.

Manila’s Muslim Quarter and people offer more than food – they offer the real thing: food that nourishes both body and understanding. With an open mind and empty stomach – do go beyond your usual eating.

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