Monday, September 15, 2025

Not your usual Italian fare

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WHEN Filipinos think of Italian cuisine, pizza and pasta always come to mind. However, this is a disservice to a cuisine that has a history just as rich as French and as diverse as Chinese cuisine. Swissí´tel Clark’s newest restaurant to date hopes to upend these preconceptions as it offers a gastronomic spread that stays true to tradition while injecting some modernity.

Located on the 5th floor of the Swissí´tel Clark, Ristorante di Verona’s open kitchen is the star of the show as chefs meticulously prepare each and every dish that goes on the table.

The restaurant is headed by Swissí´tel Clark’s own Executive Chef Alessio Loddo, who hails from Sardinia, Italy.

Chef Alessio saw Ristorante di Verona as an opportunity to show diners the true breadth of Italian cuisine, and the variety of dishes available is a testament to that. The restaurant features an all-encompassing menu, starting from the aperitif to digestive, from traditional dishes to modern creations.

Start the meal with some antipasto. Unlike the dainty pieces usually offered, Ristorante Verona’s Bruschetta features a thick slice of crusty bread topped with fresh tomatoes, slivers of parmesan, and flakey salt. Alongside it is a gelée of tomatoes and “pasteo” — a miniature toothpaste tube filled with basil pesto.

For people who like something meatier, the Carpaccio di Manzo will hit the spot. Here, Marbling Grade 13 Black Angus beef tenderloin is sliced into thin medallions and flavored with cocktail sauce, arugula puree, 36-month old Parmgiano Reggiano, and drops of top-quality olive oil.

However, the most interesting antipasto is a modern take on Insalata di Mele. Here, a green apple is shaved into strips and the core removed. The strips are then reassembled into an apple yet again but this time with a gorgonzola and nut core. Adding some sweet acidity are several droplets of 25-year old Balsamic Vinegar.

No Italian restaurant would have pasta missing from its menu. At Ristorante di Verona, however, do not expect to find carbonara among the dishes. Instead, dive into the Cannelloni di Magro, Pomodoro, e Fonduta di Fromaggi for a cheesy delight. Egg and spinach cannelloni are stuffed with a ricotta mix, cooked in a flavorful tomato sauce and topped with a thick layer of cheese crust that is broiled until golden brown. Meanwhile, the Malloreddus alla Campidanese exudes home-cooked heartiness. Made from pasta typically used in Sardinian cuisine, this dish is Alessio’s tribute to his home and his childhood memories. It goes without saying that all pastas are made in-house.

The journey continues with the main course. The Filetto di Branzino features local sea bass topped with smoked pepper cream foam. Meanwhile the Filetto di Manzo is a thick slice of beef tenderloin accompanied by truffle mashed potato with a flavorful jus cranking up the intensity of flavor.

To end the meal, enjoy some Cannoli — tube-shaped pastry shells stuffed with a sweet ricotta filling and served with hazelnut paste. Ristorante Verona’s take on the tiramisu is a visual delight. The coffee-soaked Savoiardo is served beside mounds of mascarpone and light chocolate mousse so diners can tweak the proportions to their liking.

A meal will not be complete without some coffee; for a decadent treat, the restaurant offers affogato. Here, piping hot freshly-pulled espresso is poured over vanilla ice cream for a refreshing yet energizing treat. After a heavy meal, a digestif is in order. Ristorante Verona also offers its own limoncello made in-house. A high-alcohol lemon liqueur served ice-cold neat, enjoying the intense lemon nights as the alcohol warms the body is the perfect way to cap off the dining experience.

Ristorante di Verona was envisioned to be a mix of fine and fun dining where guests can enjoy the best that Swissí´tel’s culinary team can offer, which it delivers with aplomb. The combination of great food and an excellent wine selection to pair it with results in a dining experience that is both fun and adventurous and yet comfortingly familiar.

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