FOOD and culture are inextricably intertwined. The staple dishes found in a specific province are usually tied to locally available and easy to source ingredients . This is true of the province Bohol. The island province might not have the same culinary depth compared to provinces like Pampanga. But look past the tourist traps and the usual hotel fare, and one will find that there is a rich culinary heritage hidden beneath the surface.
Take ube which normally means ube jam, arguably the most popular of which is a brand found in Northern Luzon. The unique terrain of Bohol makes the ube from the island a cut above the rest. Locally called ubekinampay, the tuber is said to be sweeter and more tender than the ones found in other regions in the Philippines. It stands above the rest, with the Bureau of Plant Industry recognizing the ubekinampay as the “Queen of Philippine Yams”.
Boholanons’ most familiar use for ube would be the ubebiko. During a recently-concluded media tour showcasing the delicacies and cuisines of Bohol, the contingent was brought to Cresencia Café in Baclayon where guests were shown how the ubekinampay is blended into glutinous rice boiled in coconut milk to form a rich dessert that is best paired with steaming hot local chocolate called sikwate.
Boholanons love to snack and during a visit at Julio’s Bed and Breakfast in Loay, proprietor Julius “Pio” Araneta and his wife Dra. Grace took the helm at the kitchen to create some traditional delicacies enjoyed in the afternoon. Siakoy, a braided yeast-leavened doughnut, is considered a local favorite. While it is similar to the pilipit in appearance, the siakoy is lighter and softer, with a delicate crust unlike the crunchy hard exterior of the pilipit.
Another well-loved Bohol pasalubong is kalamay. Ms. Lily Busano, the president of the AlburCalamay Makers Association broke down the steps in making this sticky delicacy. It is made out of grated coconut, coconut milk, muscovado sugar, and finely ground glutinous rice, all mixed together and cooked for hours, stirred constantly until a thick viscous paste is formed. Lily said that depending on the size of the batch, this could take up to 8 hours before the kalamay is done.
The most interesting dish that was prepared during the visit was nilubihangkagang, or land crab gently stewed in coconut cream. Pio said these land crabs are abundant in the marshy areas where Bohol’s rivers meet the sea, where children would catch land crabs using bamboo traps.
The sleepy town of Alburquerque, or better known as Albur is home to one of Bohol’s best-kept culinary secrets — AsinTibuok, originally a product on the verge of disappearing which has gained widespread popularity in recent years. AsinTibuok is a solid mass of salt created through a laborious process that takes at least a week and a day to complete. Saltmakers start by soaking hundreds of coconut husks in saltwater until full saturation. These are then dried and then burned down into a fine ash, a process that takes several days to do.
The province of Bohol might be best known for its chocolate hills, diving spots, and the numerous churches dotting the island, but the island is also home to a food culture steeped deeply in history, dishes that are hidden gems waiting to be discovered.
