TAGAYTAY might be best known for its tawilis, bulalo, and the majestic view of Taal volcano, but a new establishment aims to make it a beer mecca south of Metro Manila.
Papa Bolo, the brainchild of Aniela Tolentino along with Lampara chef-owners Alphonse Sotero and Aj Ramos, and brewmaster Mike Wayne strives to offer a brew pub experience par excellence.
The 3-storey steel and glass structure serves as a home for the brewery in which Mike Wayne is in his element. The brewmaster brings with him over a decade of experience, having worked in several breweries over his career. For Papa Bolo, Wayne wanted to slowly ease the drinking public into the world of craft beers.
“There is a growing movement of craft beer here in the Philippines. However, the market is not yet that mature so we need to slowly show beer drinkers what craft beer has to offer,” he said. For this, Wayne developed 6 beers that showcase different beer styles.
The Barkada Bliss might be the most familiar to most beer drinkers, being a Bohemian-style pilsner, similar to well-loved Filipino classic San Miguel Beer. However, the Barkada Bliss has a more nuanced depth of flavor with a crisp refreshing mouthfeel that is best savored slowly.
For those looking to expand their horizons, the Piña Niña Pineapple Ale highlights Tagaytay’s bountiful pineapple harvests. The addition of pineapple during the mashing and post-fermenting stage gives a slight tart finish that rounds out the beer.
The Cowboy Classic and the Disco Biscuit are the classic American Pale Ale and Caramel Ale done right. The Cowboy Classic is inspired by the Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, with a malty backbone that stands up to the use of Citra Hops. Meanwhile, the Disco Biscuit lives up to its name, with a biscuit and malty flavor layered with hints of vanilla, lemon, and graham cracker, all topped off with blueberry notes.
For those looking to dive into the deep end, Papa Bolo also offers the Bad Boy IPA, a west-coast hop bomb that uses Munich Malt which gives a slight roasted note. The Twin Suns is a sleeper. The Double IPA comes in at a whopping 10% alcohol which results in a beer that explodes with flavor. On the nose are ripe stone fruits, citrus, grapefruit and fresh cut hay while the palate gives way to rich fruit and a crispy hop-forward backbone that lingers at length.
The beers make up only half of the equation of a brewpub and the tandem of Sotero and Ramos pulled out all of the stops to provide dishes that would pair well with what’s on tap.
“Most restaurants have a specific cuisine as a guide for the dishes on offer. For Papa Bolo, we wanted to create dishes that would pair well with the different beers. The results are items that draw influences from different cuisines, from Western to Asian to Filipino,” Sotero said.
The stout-glazed wagyu with its rich flavor pairs well with the Barkada Bliss, whose clean crisp taste cuts through the richness of the beef. Meanwhile, the soft-shell crab with curry sauce is paired with the Piña Niña since the 2 items use pineapple, unifying them both.
The Cowboy Classic goes with Crispy Pata with a tamarind-based dipping sauce, echoing the idea of taking a twist on a classic. The Bad Boy IPA’s hop-forward characteristics are tamed with the smokey-sweet flavors of Barbecued Chicken Lollipops. The Twin Sun’s complexity goes well with baby sweet corn prepared Elote-style but with a Japanese twist.
Finally, the meal ended with Taal, a torched soft meringue covering a cheddar cheese cake, topped with a berry sauce and sweet-pea chiffon.
As more people expand their beer horizons and become more discerning beer drinkers, Papa Bolo aims to be an example of what would result when well-crafted beer is paired with well-thought out food. And while it might be a slight drive away for people living in the metro, the experience is well worth the trip.
