Sunday, May 25, 2025

A paean to Filipino gatherings

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Sunday lunches have a special place for many Filipino families as these are the moments when relatives come together to share a meal, with families bringing their own special dishes to add to the mix. However, in today’s busy world, occasions such as these are now few and far in between.

Azadore aims to bring back the nostalgia by serving dishes that are mainstays of any family gathering. Spanish-inspired paella sits comfortably alongside American-style smoked ribs and heaping servings of Filipino comfort food.

For co-owner and executive chef Tatung Sarthou, Azadore is an ode to simpler days. “We wanted to celebrate the vibe of Sunday get-togethers,” Sarthou said.

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“Families, extended families, entire neighborhoods coming together. The adults enjoyed their drinks while the kids played outside. That’s the essence of Azadore,” he added.

This is also apparent in the structure of the restaurant – a 1960s family home spruced up by Filipino interior designer Ivy Almario.

The partners of Azadore took great care to ensure that the layout of the house remains untouched while providing an atmosphere that pays homage to family gatherings of yesteryears.

Azadore’s menu is a melting pot of influences, reflecting the deep impact of Spanish and American cuisines on Filipino culinary traditions.

“For the Spanish side, we’re known for our paellas, cochinillo, callos, and lengua,” Sarthou said. “On the other hand, our fried chicken, smoked ribs, steaks, pasta, and pizza are also very popular.”

While rooted in tradition, the dishes are carefully refined. “I’m very particular about flavor,” Sarthou said. “When you give a dish a certain name, especially one that carries cultural weight, it should live up to expectations. You can be creative, but if it doesn’t meet the memory and standard people associate with it, then it has missed the mark.”

As it celebrates its second year, Azadore continues to expand its offerings, adding new dishes that are comfortingly familiar. The Iberian chicken is a hearty treat. Marinated overnight and cooked low and slow, the result is a flavorful poultry dish that pleases the palate.

For those who prefer a more luxurious dish, the Paella Bisteka features a sofrito, mushrooms, and truffle-infused rice which is topped with a generous cut of beef fillet, meaty king oysters, and roasted bell peppers.

For those who crave that American flavor, the Baked Pork Chops with Apple Sauce is a classic combination. Here, a thick-cut pork chop is baked and served alongside a spiced apple sauce for a balance of sweet and savory.

Seafood lovers also eat well at Azadore. The Pulpo a la Gallega Salad is inspired by the classic Spanish dish and here, the poached octopus and boiled potatoes are paired with crisp cucumber and tomatoes and finished with a refreshing lemon vinaigrette.

Meanwhile, diners can have their pomfret two ways: the Pomfret in Lemon Butter Sauce is a tangy, savory delight, while the Baked Pomfret features a rich marinara sauce and is paired with roasted vegetables.

The end of the meal is made more memorable with the addition of Baked Alaska. A classic dessert, layers of chocolate, strawberry, and vanilla ice cream on a bed of sponge cake are encased in a soft meringue shell before being flambeed and torched tableside.

For Sarthou, the greatest reward isn’t fame or recognition but the sight of people sharing a meal.

“One of the most beautiful things as a chef is seeing an entire family, from the lola to the apo, enjoying a meal together,” he said. “That’s when you know you’ve done something right.”

Sarthou extends a simple invitation to come to Azadore, eat, and remember.

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